Survival to Kitsch
Me: I dunno. I think we might be bored. And it’s in the middle of nowhere.
Her: I think we should see it. You’ve always wanted to see one and now’s our chance. I’ll handle all the logistics.
Me: Well, ok, I guess…
One of the things that Sara did for our trip, because I’d mentioned wanting to visit a Hakka round house – called a tulou (土樓) – was to discover that there was a replica round house built in a town called Miaoli in Taiwan.
I mentioned us visiting it briefly and said that I’d tell you about it someday.
Seems like today’s the day.
This is me standing in front of the replica.
It’s not so much a house as it is more a round apartment complex with an open courtyard in the middle.
For the replica, they built a glass roof over what is usually the open roof.
You can see how there are rooms all along the side of it.
Now, the reason that these things were round was pretty simple: The Hakka were living in a world that just didn’t want them and was always trying to kill them.
So, the buildings were round so that archers could defend the home from all angles.
They had walls that were up to six feet thick at the base to prevent siege weapons from breaking in.
On mainland China, there’s a whole preserved village of them in Fujian – what we saw in Taiwan was merely a replica of one.
Again, they weren’t so much homes as they were mini-fortresses that were meant to keep the inhabitants – my people – from being murdered.
I mean, think about that for a second.
Even if you’re not told that you’re hated and despised, just looking around you – being in remote areas living in fortresses that were meant to be completely self-sufficient – how do you not grow up feeling like an outsider and unwanted?
This was the mindset of the Hakka for thousands of years and one has to think that this mindset permeated everything about us.
In some ways, the Hakka are truly like the Jewish community in that, like them, the Hakka really focused on education and vying for positions of power.
Because, like the Jewish community, the Hakka were tired of being powerless and persecuted, so we have been over-represented in the military and politics post-WW2.
In fact, post-Mao, the most powerful man in all of China was Deng Xiaoping, a Hakka.
He modernized China more than any other single human being, including Mao himself.
In other words, (and this is purely my opinion but I think I’m right) he made modern China more Hakka-like and this is why China is so powerful now.
And that is why I’ve said, so many times in the past, that the US is not prepared to go to war against a country like China.
America is not prepared to go against a society that has, because of Deng, a culture based on education, power, and survival.
The Hakka survive shit.
You don’t know what you’re up against.
This isn’t the China that the US carved up in the 1800s and Japan beat in the 30s and 40s. This is one that’s modern and has learned its lessons.
Now, the immediately preceeding two pictures are of more replica round houses, this time, built on top of a department store in my my mom’s hometown of Hsinchu in Taiwan.
I find it funny that these things created for survival and defense have now become cultural kitsch.
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And like I said in my last entry, I think the Hakka culture explains so much about why I am the way I am: Focused on knowledge and education but never forgetting that survival is as much an issue of physical ability as well as mental acuity.
The Hakka round house is a synecdoche of the Hakka people, in my opinion.
Me: I think I’m finally gonna write about the Hakka round house. Hey, thanks for insisting that we go [when we were in Taiwan]. That was really cool to see.
Her: Oh, sure! I’m glad we got a chance to go.


Location: my regular rectangular pad
Mood: ridic busy
Music: I learned my lesson young (Spotify)
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